Film Review of “The Wildest Dream”
Bryant Lymburn
For the film review I wanted to explore Mount Everest a explore further into the lives, equipment, and struggles that these early mountaineers faced battling against this great monolith. In doing so I came across the National Geographic film / documentary called “The Wildest Dream.” In this film it recounts the life and climbing conducted by George Mallory in an attempt to recreate some of the hardships and struggles in which he and Sandy Irvine encountered while climbing to the summit of Mont Everest. To many, there is a thought that when Mallory and Irvine were last seen just 800 feet below the summit there could be reason to believe that George Mallory was the first to summit Mount Everest. Seventy-five years after the fateful British Expedition, Conrad Anchor discovered George Mallory’s body in an expedition pinned on finding the two lost climbers. George Mallory’s body was discovered east of where the two climbers were last seen heading up to the summit. This suggests that they were on their way back down the mountain, and possibly the way back from the summit. Many items were found still on George Mallory’s frozen corpse, but one key item was missing a photo his Mallory’s wife Ruth. Mallory always said that if he reached the summit he would leave her picture on the summit. With the photo of Ruth missing raises the question if the pair ever reached the summit. However there is some skepticism to this theory due to the fact that there is now confirmed free climb of the overhanging Second Step. Currently there is a ladder bolted to the rock installed by the Chinese in 1975. If the second step can be free climbed then there is hope to the possibility that George Mallory and Sandy Irvine were the first to summit Mount Everest nearly 30 years prior. Here Conrad Anchor steps in to help solve this question and to prove that free climbing the Second Step is possible under the conditions that Mallory and Irvine faced.
In the modern day and age individuals are always looking for answers and the truth. This search for knowledge can apply to a wide range of objects from how molecules interact to how the earth and stars interact. This is what originally drives and gives reason to the British empire to go explore this “new” realm of the world; in order to gain knowledge. That curiosity is transformed in the film to the search for truth. The truth of whether it was possible to climb the Second Step to prove that George Mallory could have been the first to the summit of Mount Everest. Eight years after the expedition of which found Mallory’s body, Conrad Anchor began to arrange a new expedition to solve the above question.
In this search for truth Conrad would partner with a young climber in Leo Houlding. However Houlding has had almost no experience at high altitude, just as Sandy Irvine didn’t have any when he first explored Mount Everest with Mallory. Both young partners feel a great respect and honor to be able to climb with some of the greatest climbers of each respective generation. In order to understand the difficulties that the Mallory and Irvine faced, Conrad and Houlding would replicate outfits of which Mallory and Irvine wore during their expedition. This replicated gear would include hobnailed boots, gaberdine jackets, and fur skin hats to name a few. On the lower slopes the process of cutting steps was necessary when using the replica gear. Using the same siege tactic of using multiple camps, Conrad and Holding began the slow acclimatization process. At 23,000 feet the two would once again test their replica gear. At this altitude the weather becomes a lot more difficult to predict, and while out climbing in the replica gear the temperature drops to negative 20 degrees. The two are immediately forced back to camp in order to prevent the onset of frostbite. (Conrad mentions loosing a finger would be worth it) This proves that the gear Mallory and Irvine used did not protect oneself from the elements very well and to be a climber in their era meant you were a real stubborn and strong individual.
The next challenge Conrad and Holding faced was the free climb of the infamous Second Step. With the encroaching monsoon time was becoming and increasing concern. Conrad contemplates turning around just as other have in the past, but decided to push on. On one of the last days of decent weather the two pushed for a summit bid over the second step. The ladder was removed in order to allow full range of movements and handholds up the face. Conrad lead the climb with a slip in the middle of the attempt and while it took over an hour, it was a success. This accomplishment proves that a skilled and experienced climber could make it over the second step. Thus proving the possibility that Mallory and Irvine could have reached the summit in the 1924.
In both cases the two expeditions started out with a goal and a dream. The dream to climb, and the dream to prove that anything is possible. However this dream comes at a cost. The self conflict involved with having such large aspirations can tear a man apart form the inside. It can be seen in Mallory and how when he was away from Mount Everest he longed for it, but at the same time he missed Ruth while climbing. This was extremely present on the last expedition. Mallory needed to climb and summit Everest to solve this internal conflict so that he could return home at peace. The same thing can be seen in Conrad as he thinks about turning around because of the encroaching monsoon and the pressure that he is putting on his wife and family. However Conrad had the advantage of a satellite telephone. In the conversation he had with his wife, Jennifer, and she urges that you need to be confident and tells him to climb because there may not be another opportunity for an attempt. But to these great men the ultimate risk is the ultimate reward.