A film of two tales is how I would describe this documentary. One story line of the film tells the story of George Mallary and his upbringing and fascination with climbing, his life and relationship with his wife, and his obsessive desire to conquer the tallest mountain in the world during a new age of exploration. It also dives into the background story of Andrew Irvine and his contributions to the 1924 Everest expedition and how he became the number one choice for Mallary’s climbing partner. The second story to the film is that of Conrad Anker and his discovery of Mallory’s body in 1999 and how his life has become intertwined with Mallory’s in that he becomes infatuated with recreating his fateful 1924 climb to try and prove if it was indeed possible at all without modern equipment and as an in-prompt-to tribute to Mallory and Irvine who lost their lives on that expedition. During his expedition, he recruits British climbing prodigy Leo Houlding to be his esteemed climbing partner. In their attempt to recreate Mallory and Irvine’s climb they use equipment and clothing that was restored and designed to resemble what Mallory and Irvine would have used. However, this part of the film seemed to be a bit redundant and didn’t really have any bearing on the overall direction or story of the film as Anker and Houlding wore the replicated clothing and gear up to camp three and never again. Another over the top portion of the film was Anker’s decision to try and free climb the second step and not used the fixed ladder that was installed by the Chinese. But this task again seemed mute and pointless as Anker uses some modern safety precautions we attempting to free climb the second step such as cramming devices and rope and belay devices. Through this action, Anker seemed to prove very little with his stunt using modern climbing safety precautions but claiming that it was a free climb.

Archival footage and photography of the 1924 Everest Expedition was incredible and really painted a picture of how untouched and serene the mountain was at the time. Not hindered by the commercialization of Everest in the present the mountain in the footage presents a very ominous and looming almost living creature which adds to the incredible will of Mallory and his team. The mention of Tibetan rituals were also explored to a small extent in the film discussing the encounter Mallory had with the Monks and their depiction of a tragic accident that would foil their safe return from the mountain even showing Mallory a painting of a western looking man being devoured by the mountain spirits. Anker and Houlding are seen partaking in a Puja ceremony which is the blessing of the expedition before it begins and flashbacks to Anker’s house which is covered in Tibetan prayer flags is common throughout the film. Another theme of that was featured in the film is the question on whether or not Mallory and Irvine reached the summit of Everest before they disappeared forever. The supporting evidence found on the body of Mallory specifically the lack of a photograph of his wife which he promised to leave on the summit, and the fact that his sun goggles were in his pocket suggest that he was descending the summit in the dark. The whole point of Anker’s climb was to recreate Mallory’s 1924 attempt to determine if it was possible which in most cases it was. Again the importance of first ascent is debated in the film and presents some interesting theories on the possibility but again we will probably never know for sure. The first ascent of Everest has sparked debate especially in the case of Hilary and Tenzing Norgay both of whom were the first to reach the summit, but controversy remains on who actually summited first much like many other first ascent cases we have read about during the semester.

The documentary does present some in-depth details about Mallory’s life and his background which was interesting and helped me as a viewer to respect him much more. The same could be said about Irvine both of these individuals were highly intelligent and driven and determined in the same fashion that we would find noble in this day and age. One common theme that was apparent in the film was how the passion and desire to embark on these noble feats were morally questioned due to the fact that Mallory had a family and so too does Anker. Often the public scrutinizes those who put what they deem their selfish desires ahead of their loved ones. But the film sheds light on how Mallory was indeed a great family man and dearly missed and loved his wife Ruth and consistently wrote to her during his expedition. However, they both (Mallory, and Ruth) understood the necessity and meaning that conquering Everest was for Mallory. So there seemed to be a mutual understanding that Mallory would not return home unless he achieved his goal. The film sheds light on how dire the situation was for the 1924 expedition, exhausted, starving and slowly dying from being in high altitudes for too long Mallory and Irvine decide to make a push for the summit even if it was the end of them. Anker backs up this assertion himself by having the same dilemma that Mallory faced. The question of when is it too much? and when does my own desires need to take a backseat to my love for my family? Anker’s past is rehashed bringing up the loss of his close friend Alex Lowe during an avalanche in the Himalayan mountains and how that has affected him personally. Life is fragile but for Anker and his wife, they both seem to understand the significance of the passion and desire to climb so for them and many other climbers with families seem to understand the obsessive and passionate will that climbers express towards their mountainous goals. During Anker and Houlding’s ascent of Everest they too are running out of time as the monsoon season is threating to make their attempt on the Everest summit impossible, but with his wife’s blessing and his willpower, Anker makes it to the top of Everest. Another example of this is the case of Allison Hargreaves and the scrutiny she received for putting her life before her families and children. the film does not present a sex based argument but much of the same criticism about abondoning your family for your own vain glorious pursuit seems to be common.

Overall I enjoyed most aspects of the documentary especially the pieces of Mallory and Irvine and the whole 1924 Everest expidition which was incredibly fascinating stuff. The piece about Anker seemed to be to scripted and forced and could have done without much of his take and attempted connection that he felt he had with Mallory. The film does really give good insight in how monumental of a task climbing Everest was back then and creates a new understanding and fosters feelings of respect towards Mallory.