The engaging tale of Eric Shipton exploration of the Karakoram and the Angil range back in 1938, is a true adventure tale. The methods of this expedition are unique in the fact that it is very small and not demanding of several amenities that are so perpetuated by other expeditions of this kind. The climbers seemed to be hoping to establish a base camp in the heart of the Karakoram and then branch out on smaller expeditions from there. They faced far more trouble than usual expeditions, the trouble being peculiar in nature and is vastly not climbing related. Further, this caused an unparalleled amount of perseverance of the goal, which, from the beginning, was to do nothing more than just explore. Although, not a very important mission by modern standards, it is truly unique in its methods and the difficulties faced in a one of a kind expedition.

The book starts with Shipton detailing his team and why he choose whom he did. The team consisted of Eric Shipton, H. W. Tilman, Michael Spender (Surveyor), and John Auden (Geologist). Along with the four Englishmen, Shipton also transported and hired seven sherpa porters, that prove to be more valuable than any other porters the latter encountered. The total number of souls on the expedition was 11! This small number was crucial to Shiptons and Tilmans method of lightweight climbing. Each man of the trip was allowed to bring the following:

1. One Sleeping Bag
2. 1 Rubber Mat
3. 1 Windproof Suit
   

   The Expedition Members (Europeans on Top, Sherpas Below)

4. 2 Pairs of Woolen Pants
5. 3 Sweaters
6. 8 Pairs of Socks
7. 2 Shirts ( However Tilman only took one)
8. 1 Pair of shorts
9. 1 Pair of Pyjama Trousers
10. 2 pairs of Gloves
11. 1 Balaclava helmet
12. 2 Pairs of Snow Glasses
13. 1 pair of ankle braces
14. 1 Pair of Climbing boots
15. 1 Pair of Gym Shoes
16. 1 Ice axe
17. 1 Camera

That was all that was permitted for a 4 month long journey through some of the toughest terrain on Earth. The sherpa porters were allowed even less personal items.

As the expedition left Sringar, they made their way up the Skardu, which took about fourteen days, causing them to arrive on May 18th. There, they gathered the remainder of there money for the governmental treasury, as well as, made their way to gather the majority of the food needed for the expedition. Continuing from Skardu to Askole, they crossed the Mustagh Pass arriving in Askole on May 24th. Here, they purchased the remaining food needed and one hundred more Porters that would carry their food to their base camp. After much trouble with the selection of the porters, they are off two days later. They had crossed several glaciers by following Professor Desio’s route that the Italian had set in 1924. However, crossing many of these glaciers were difficult for the recently hired porters and mutiny was feared by Shipton. As such, when the Porters came to Tilman and Shipton with demands, they paid them for their service, thus far, and sent them back on there way. However, this caused an abundant of trouble on the expedition because it forced multiple relays to take place in order for the necessary amount of food and supplies for the expedition to continue. This brought the pace to a crawl. Reshaping the expedition, Shipton left several caches of food along their route in order to lessen their load and give them supplies for the return journey.

They continue on their way using any fuel found and hunting, in hope to gather more food to extend the exception to the original allotted time. The climbers broke off in small groups and gathering back in order to gain a wide scope of the landscape. Several challenges were faced as they crossed the treacherous landscape. Losing several supplies as the cross a roaring river, getting lost in a cave, and much more. All the time, they needed to rely on their supplies in order to have enough. The Sherpas are invaluable and Shipton wished he would have doubled their number from the start. The vast appreciation of their climbing partners is said explicitly. The care that the entire team shows towards their sherpa companions is one of a single climbing party and not porter and master. In this respect, the entire expedition was not led by one man, every decision was made by all the European climbing partners present, a true democratic expedition.This combination of unilateral leadership, and fantastic porters allowed the expedition to make it to their intended goal, albeit very late. On August 1, they arrived at the top of the Drenmang Glacier. Here, they set up a base camp of sorts. Exploring this glacier system and the peaks around it leads to a horrific fall into a crevasse and a night spent in a blizzard while atop a mountain, which makes it so incredible that they all survive!

The team split up once again and for the final time to survey and map in smaller teams, allowing greater exploration in a smaller amount of time. On August 10th, Spender and Shipton leave returning the way the in which the came, and Tillaman continuing on with 23 day of supplies, to map the great glacier system that attributes to the Nobande-Braldu watershed. In this part of the book, Tilman picks up the pen,gives several insights to the sherpas, and the team in general. He give his account of what happened after himself and Shipton departed from one another. Tilman and two sherpa counterparts continue exploring, and end up in the Basha Valley where the natives there treat them like ghosts of the mountains. Wanting to attempt a 21,000 foot peak Tilman and the sherpas work though night cutting steps in the snow to attempt to get a col. Eventually giving of the quest, the start the return journey back to India. Over plains and mountains, the arrive in back at their starting point in the end of September.

Shifting back to the return trip of Shipton, Spender and the others; climbing on glaciers for a fortnight they climbed a 19,000 foot peak and survey from the top. They climb back down and battle the glaciers on again, gathering the supplies they had left. At one time the sherpas packs waid 130 pounds. Back on “dry land” they rested, and prepare for the return journey. Arriving back in India on September third.

Mapping valleys, peaks and glaciers that had never been seen before, this book was a great read. I enjoyed it fully and recommend it to anyone who enjoys a great adventure story that paints a vivid image in your mind with every page.