I think the Annapurna expedition really shaped the new golden age of mountaineering. In the 1950’s mountaineering is shifting from a climbing era of veterans to a climbing era of adventurists. The french climbing establishment assembled a great team. It seems as though they chose people who were more into adventure than the nationalistic war heroes, and I think this was one factor that led to their success. Another factor would be their patients, caution and communication. The use of climbing technology from WWII also led to a successful climb. The army developed their own ice axes, piton, tents, and sleeping bags which were all put into use and became readily available and affordable after the war. Because of these developments and the introduction and use of nylon rope, down jackets, insulated boots with vibrate soles, and nylon tents the sport of mountaineering has taken off in the 1950’s. The team also applied alpine climbing techniques which seemed uncomfortable for the Sherpa, but I think was another different approach that led to their success or at least having the knowledge and experience. Another factor of course would be having a doctor, and the french climbing establishment definitely chose the right doctor for the job.

The expedition was well organized and extremely tactical as well. Herzog had crews finding and reporting back for the best and safest way to the summit. The team used the word “assault” throughout the expedition and other commands used during the war, but definitely have their place in the mountaineering world as well. In the book we also see climbing terms used today, signifying the transition of climbing eras. Herzog led a great group of climbers and it seemed like everyone did their role well, especially Dr. Oudot for keeping Herzog and Ichac alive.

I was skeptical of Herzog’s relationship with the Sherpas in the beginning of the book, but later on I realized that he really respected them and put a lot of power into their hands. They shaped the climb for the Sherpas and dug out steps for them. Herzog did seem like a king to them and in a way had ownership to them in some portions of the book, but I would say he was very genuine towards them. You realize it was indeed a great relationship when they part ways towards the end of the book.

Herzog’s relationship with the people in the villages seemed a little different however. His view on them almost reminded me of the “noble savages.” The noble savage often referred to indigenous peoples during European colonial times especially seen with Columbus and throughout the 1600’s. Herzog called a girl a poor little soul and wrote about her twisted physical condition. He also said she lived in a state of destitution though being luckily unconscious of it, which may be true, but the tone I got when they passed through villages was one of disgust and bias. Herzog also had very strong and warm feelings in the mountains too, so maybe he did feel disgusted in the villages and just wanted to leave to get into the mountains. It seems understandable, but I did get a sense of some judgement towards the people as well. Definitely my favorite book so far, I enjoyed the teams optimism and Herzog’s positive attitude. It certainly contrasts last week’s readings being so dramatic; there was just a little drama towards the end in Annapurna.