Social Climbing on Annapurna did a great job of ruining Herzog’s book. I read the book thinking that Herzog was a great man; humble, brave, and a great leader. Since reading Julia Rak’s argument I am conflicted. It is hard to deny Rak’s arguments against Herzog and the elitist culture surrounding mountaineering. I had many topics in mind for this essay, but Rak proposed counter arguments, most of which I took her side, although I do disagree with her on the extent of Herzog’s racism towards the Sherpas. Yes, there were obvious quotes from Herzog that can appear to be racist. I am specifically referring to when Herzog complains that he is carrying gear like a Sherpa. At first read they may seem racist, but I read those quotes as if Herzog was referring to the Sherpa’s job strict job description. The Sherpas that were on the expedition were specifically paid to carry the gear; it is not unfair for Herzog to complain that he is doing the duties of his employee’s. Herzog writes that the Sherpas were “climbing partners”, and were to be treated as such. Herzog showed great respect for them as human beings, he invited Dawatondu to accompany him to the summit, which in Herzog’s mind was a great honor. He also respected their culture enough to adhere to the warnings of the lama, when warned not to ascend Dhasulagiri and choose Annapurna instead.

The dialog of heroism has been a difficult subject for me. I once thought of a hero as someone who selflessly saves lives. Finally current events and constant conversation in this class has led me to look up the definition of a hero. The dictionary says that it is anyone who acts courageously or achieves greatness. They do not necessarily have to save lives Now that I have lowered my standards on what a hero is, and I can agree that mountaineers such as Herzog, can be classified as heroes for their efforts against the mountain, for their nations sake.

Something that has not been expressed in the readings thus far is the lasting effect of tragic expeditions. Do the surviving climbers suffer from any sort of p.t.s.d.? Do mountaineers wake in the night screaming from nightmares of harrowing adventures and freezing nights? There is often talk of “survivors’ guilt”, but it has not been written about in the readings. Our readings tend to end once the mountaineer is done with his adventure; there is nothing to say how life is after retiring from the mountains. I would imagine that Herzog would have long-term damage. His situation was so dodgy and painful that he was ready to give up and let death consume him. That sort of setting has a tendency to corrupt the mind for a lifetime.

Last weeks article from Barcott expressed negative motives for mountaineers and their need to write books; detailing their “heroic” actions on the mountain. After reading of Herzog and his amputated limbs I thought of another reason for publishing books. Lachenal was a professional mountain guide, after his summit of Annapurna he had many appendages amputated. What sort of life can one hope to live after having multiple limbs amputated from a person whom is considered adventurous? Minimal mountaineering can afterwards be accomplished. How else can an income be made? A simple and honorable route is to publish the details of their mountaineering experiences. In this way, mountaineering can still be their life.